Chenin is for lovers

 

Chenin Blanc is a grape unlike any other; it can be bracingly dry and full of minerality, or vigorously sweet with overripe stone fruit notes. To know one Chenin means you are still a stranger to every other Chenin. This chameleon-like white grape has been grown for hundreds of years and yet it still lacks the international reputation of other grapes like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Chenin is most plentiful in the Loire Valley, South Africa and California. If you’re beginning to explore this white wine for the first time, or even the hundredth time, you should definitely always start, and end, in the magnificent Loire Valley. 

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The area of Anjou, located in the lower Loire Valley, became popular for Chenin Blanc when King Henry II of England began serving it in his court in the year of 1154. It gained enough popularity that the region itself expanded to make way for more vineyards! The 2019 Mary Taylor Anjou Blanc is a wonderful example of the classic stoniness of Anjou Chenin. From winemaker Pascal Biotteau this organic wine has mineral-driven notes of honeysuckle and ripe apricots. For another Anjou Chenin, try the vibrant and peachy 2018 Les Équilibristes ‘Bouillon Aux Dames. This label is unmistakable (see image) - it features a gathering of ladies (witches?) swimming in a cauldron filled with Chenin Blanc. From organic winemakers Alexis and Dominique Du Prieure, this wine was aged in oak barrels so it is a bit fuller-bodied and buttery than the former. 

We love Californian Chenin especially from Michael and Anne Dashe who have operated their organic winery, Dashe Cellars, since 1996. Their 2019 Dashe ‘Les Enfants Terrible’ Chenin Blanc is from the AVA Clarksburg and was fermented in a concrete egg shaped vessel. While dry, it has extroverted notes of red apples, honey, and pears. Just think of apple picking and this is that! 

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The fall is a tricky season for wine drinking. One minute it’s sunny and warm and you're drinking white wine, but the next minute the wind is bustling and you’re suddenly craving red wine. Luckily these Chenin Blanc wines all have red counterparts! Florent and François, owners of Les Equilibristes, as well as Mary Taylor (Massachusetts native), both run cooperatives in France. They seek out small, organic producers who make amazing wines. 

If you’ve been jonesing to learn more about the intimidating Bordeaux region you should definitely try the 2016 Mary Taylor Bordeaux. This red is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. It was fermented in stainless steel and has notes of cherries, tobacco, and pomegranate. From further south in the sunny region of the Languedoc-Roussillon, the 2017 Les Équilibristes Le Virevoltant is a full-bodied Carignan with a rush of tannins and plums on the finish. Winemakers Pierre and Étienne aged this Carignan in a combination of vats and barrels. Back in California, the Dashe family grows and harvests their own grapes for the 2017 Dashe ‘Les Enfants Terrible’ Zinfandel. This juicy and vibrant Zin was fermented with native yeasts and underwent carbonic maceration before being aged in French oak for 4-5 months. 

Shop Chenin and more at our website and get wine shipped right to your door! If you would like curbside pickup or delivery, please call us at (978) 498-4820 or email wine@thecheeseshopofsalem.com. Cheers!


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